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    Port au pleasure
    Intrepid traveller Alistair Sutton sample the new Mercure Centro Hotel, Port Macquarie - and the gorgeous historic port town around it.

    Comfort and style sum up the 4.5 star Mecure Centro Hotel, Port Macquarie. As soon as you walk in, the hotel’s understated ambience with its warm chocolate colour scheme and clean lines envelope you.

    Conveniently located in the centre of town with its beaches and attractive coastline, the hotel has sweeping views of the hinterland and Hastings River.

    On our first night, after checking in, my partner Damien and I sipped champagne and listened to live music on the roof deck, which caters for private functions, conferences and intimate get togethers. Lit by hundreds of fairy lights with the town skyline as a backdrop, the atmosphere was romantic as we relaxed after our journey.

    THE ROOM

    Our spa room was huge and very well appointed with an LCD TV, lounge area, balcony, king size bed and of course spa bath, framed with lavish arrangements of flowers on tiered steps, worthy of any Hollywood movie set. The room, and indeed the entire hotel, is immaculate. Nothing is too much trouble for the staff who were unfailingly friendly and welcoming without being too full on about it. It is a credit to manager, Anne-Marie Crowe.

    The lovely girl on reception, Hayley, also deserves special mention. She made us feel right at home from the beginning, helping us with tour and local information, and ready to offer any assistance we required.

    THE TOWN

    During our stay we explored the town with its fascinating convict past. Port Macquarie was named after Governor Lachlan Macquarie by explorer John Oxley in 1818. ‘Port’, as locals describe it, was first settled in 1821. By 1830 convict numbers were reduced and the town was opened up for free settlement. The last convict finally left Port Macquarie in 1847. We visited the Historical Society Museum; the building which dates from 1835 to 1840 was originally built as a shop with living quarters above. I honestly think it is the best small town museum I have visited.

    Port Macquarie’s beaches and coastline are justifiably famous, with their Norfolk Island pines, rocky headlands and panoramic views. There are plenty of opportunities for trekking around and you can see why the port is such a hit as a tourist destination. Guided walking tours are available revealing the port’s history including the cemetery and old court house.

    After feasting on fresh seafood and more champagne on the hotel roof deck, Damien insisted we visit historic Roto house (I just wanted to stretch out on a loafer lounge by the heated pool). Roto, the home of one of the early families in the region, was saved at the eleventh hour from neglect and vandalism and is now managed by National Parks. It is within walking distance of the hotel, perhaps not when you are full of champagne and prawns. I admit it is worth a visit, even if only to experience the dotty old guide who looked wistfully through the lace curtains at the couples having their wedding photographs taken and sighed, “Love’s young dream… if only they knew what they were in for!”

    THE HOTEL


    Back at Centro we tried the futuristic equipment in the gym, which I – as a self-confessed gym queen – can only say is the most elaborate I have seen, and surprisingly user friendly. Afterwards we relaxed in our spa bath, every bit as decadent as it looked. The room has ironing facilities, including a full size ironing board. Internet access is available for a minimal fee (especially if you go for the day rate).

    The hotel is fully accessible to anyone using a wheelchair and there are modified rooms on each floor for guests with special needs. Secure parking is available in the basement, and accessible with the swipe card to your room. Of course I managed to get off at the wrong floor and couldn’t work out why the swipe card wouldn’t open the door. Thankfully nobody was in the room, or at least they were sensible enough not to open the door. Too many cocktails on the roof deck can be a hazard - Damien just shakes his head….

    It is pleasant to wander from the hotel down to the newly refurbished shopping precinct. Closely adjacent to that is the attractive foreshore of the Hasting River, which features a very scenic walking path. At dusk, fishermen try their luck as the sun dips the horizon and we start thinking about dinner.

    THE FOOD


    We decided to dine at the atmospheric Synergy Bar and Restaurant beside the pool terrace. The muted lighting contrasting with modern art gives the room a romantic and intimate ambience. We were greeted by the effortlessly meticulous maitre de, Gary Williams, who led us to our table overlooking the street. The meal was superb and the service efficient and friendly. Leo our attentive young waiter was knowledgeable about the food and very personable, like all the team at Centro.

    The restaurant was full by the time we arrived at eight pm, as was the adjoining function room, which appeared to be hosting a conference. This didn’t appear to affect the level of service. The room had that quiet efficient buzz that any well run restaurant has, no matter how rowdy the patrons, and everyone seemed happy and well looked after.

    I started with the baked mushroom soufflé with parmesan glaze, served with roma tomato, rocket and light balsamic dressing, which complemented the dish perfectly. Damien tried the pan fried sea scallops which were plump and tasty; perhaps they could have been a little hotter. Like my entrée, the prosciutto, avocado, salsa and tapenade vinaigrette blended nicely with the scallops without over powering the seafood.

    For the main course I had the slow roasted duck breast poached in a tangy orange sauce which is made with a liqueur base called ‘Agent Orange.’ I thought the orange flavour of the sauce had a subtle aniseed tone as well, which was not unpleasant or overdone (aniseed being a spice that needs careful handling). It was served with a delicious herb crushed potato, although this wasn’t listed as the original accompaniment. Leo suggested this as an alternative when I questioned him about the risotto base listed with the dish on the menu. I am wary of risotto served in restaurants, but in hindsight I am sure it would have been fine.

    Damien tried the pork fillet for his main course, which was very tender and perfectly cooked. It was accompanied by a sweet potato mash, which he loves (I say ‘too many carbs!’) and sautéed buttered spinach that retained its colour, texture and flavour. The side dish of vegetables was perfectly cooked, but not overly, thankfully avoiding the slightly warmed raw offerings some restaurants pretend is the new al dente.

    Leo tried to tempt us with the house specialty for dessert: Synergy petite 3 taste selection, which is a sampling of some of the desserts, including a delicious looking crème brulee and served with a De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon. By now Damien and I were reaching capacity, so we settled for the lighter option, if you can call it that: Crepes Suzette. These were fluffy, not chewy and again flavoured with the Agent Orange liqueur; one does wonder about the name. Best of all Leo didn’t flambé the crepes at the table, which would be way too seventies, not that he’d have been around then. We sampled a pleasant sauvignon blanc from the local Bago vineyard, which accompanied Damien’s sea scallops and the meat dishes perfectly.

    THE WINE


    On the morning of our final day we sadly packed up and went down to breakfast in the Synergy Restaurant, transformed into a light open and airy space; byfold doors fold back overlooking the street and the pool. We sampled the buffet continental breakfast which was all we could handle after the wonderful dinner of the previous evening. The cooked breakfasts looked great and are only made once you order them, so nothing is sitting around waiting to be dished up. The eggs Benedict in particular looked delicious.

    On our way home we drove through nearby Wauchope to visit Bago Vineyard, since we enjoyed their wine at dinner so much. It’s a bit of a journey over a few kilometres of unsealed road, but thankfully the weather was fine. The setting of this winery is picturesque; green well tended hillsides with a backdrop of seemingly impenetrable forest. Bago features an attractive wine tasting area and terrace overlooking rolling hillsides of well tended grape vines. A young girl was walking along plucking the odd leaf off here and there - what a peaceful setting, but perhaps not when it is time to harvest the grapes.

    We sampled the wine although we managed to resist the tempting cheese platters. The wines tended to favour a dry palate, the sparkling wine was certainly too dry for us although we enjoyed the Verdello, Viognier and Merlot Chambourcin (dry red). Our host Jim was friendly and knowledgeable about his product; he has been in business there since 1996. They hold jazz sessions there on the second Sunday of every month (check the website listed below for details). I gather they do most of their sales online; it is well worth a visit. Naturally we bought a couple of bottles to remind us of this fantastic part of the world, handy to Sydney and Brisbane but seemingly a world away from the hassles of city living.


    USEFUL WEB LINKS


    www.centrohotel.com.au
    www.pmheritage.com.au
    www.bagovineyards.com.au

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