The inner-urban dining revolution continues with West End’s Mao Mao. KT Woods samples the fare and shouts: “Vive l’ revolution!”

Mao Mao is one of the latest crop of new dining venues sprouting up in West End, and has certainly created a buzz from its high profile position at the Boundary / Melbourne Street crossroads.

    The eye is drawn to the larger-than-life propaganda murals on the walls and ceiling, which are vibrant and cheeky, and exude not even a whisper of revolutionary zeal in the surreally-smiling communist kitsch of rosy cheeked Chinese boys and girls.

    The interior has been totally transformed with the demise of Spoon deli, with significant additions including a raised dining platform in one corner of the space, with banquette seating allowing a more casual lounge feel, a floor-to-ceiling wine rack, and bifold windows which open up Mao Mao to the street and fresh summer breezes.

    Our first foray to Mao Mao is on a wet and quiet Saturday night, but the restaurant begins to fill up as the evening progresses. Tables are set with white linen, candles flicker and the wait staff stand at attention. Service here is super attentive and friendly, and lots of helpful suggestions when we couldn’t make an easy choice from the tempting offerings.

    Mao Mao has an eclectic menu, with a strong Asian theme and some interesting international influences. Pan-Asian flavours dominate with Chinese style duck, BBQ pork, and seafood, Malaysian panaeng and yellow curries, and Kashmiri rubbed quail.

   The range of featured cuisines are well presented, and show a confident and creative kitchen, producing enticing global treats such as red bean quesadilla, tajine of braised lamb rack, potato & sweet marjoram gnocchi, lobster & Spanish sausage paella, and roast beef Wellington.

    We took a communal approach to dining. We started with a plate of crisp calamari served with young ginger rice, cucumber lime pickle and prickly ash salt. It was deliciously light and a great way to anticipate our next course.

    For mains, we shared roasted suckling pig, with rich and moist meat, and a fantastically glazed outer layer. It was served on a bed of steamed rice, with hoisin sauce and a refreshingly crisp pear, rocket and celery salad.

    Our sweet cravings were sated with a trio of delicious fresh-made ice-creams – rose petal and chocolate ‘Turkish delight’, butterscotch cream ‘hokey pokey’, and dark chocolate with mint infusion. The big hit was the Turkish delight, which was fragrant and not too sweet.

    Mao Mao is a welcome addition to inner city dining, offering great food and a casually elegant atmosphere. Chef Sian Bressolles has devised an inspiring and eclectic menu which will please those who liked to be spoilt for choice.

    The culinary revolution continues as West End vibrancy is enhanced with city cool.

MAO MAO
22 Melbourne St, West End
Phone: (07) 3255 2442.

Open seven days for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

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